Cook this: Three Eastern European dessert recipes for the holidays from Tava

Our cookbook of the week is Tava by Irina Georgescu. Tomorrow, we’ll feature an interview with the author.

Jump to the recipes: Rose-petal jam crescents (cornulețe), Romanian festive bread with walnuts and raisins (cozonac), and Moldavian layered pie with hemp cream.

Christmas just isn’t Christmas for Irina Georgescu without cornulețe, jam- or Turkish delight-filled crescents. “I can’t have Christmas without that,” says the Wales-based author.

Cornulețe are known all over Romania, she adds. “These are the cookies that everyone makes. It’s such an easy recipe and basically everyone feels very comfortable baking it.”

Georgescu’s family filled the crescents with plum jam at Christmastime when she was growing up in the Romanian capital of Bucharest. Here, she features rose-petal jam, which would be made with prized Damascus roses in Romania. “It’s absolutely delicious with these crescents.”

Use the jam of your choice for the filling, or rose-flavoured Turkish delight, which is especially nice for Christmas, and a mark of the Middle Eastern and Balkan influence on Romanian pastries.

The second recipe we’re sharing from Tava, cozonac — a slightly sweet, braided or twisted yeasted bread — is another of Georgescu’s holiday traditions.

Cozonac “is the Romanian festive bread par excellence,” she writes. Filled with a mixture of walnuts and golden raisins, it’s one of two celebration breads that are fixtures on her holiday table. Stollen — which is very popular in the U.K. — being the other.

The bread is so iconic, Georgescu also included a version in her cookbook debut, Carpathia (2020). “I just couldn’t avoid it. I had to put it in here for the authenticity of the book,” she says.

The version in Carpathia features rum in the dough as well as in the walnut filling. Continuing on the fragrant, floral theme from the rose-petal jam crescents, the filling for this cozanac is scented with orange blossom water. This rendition also differs in its use of sour cream in the dough. Romanian bakers commonly use dairy — whether sour cream, crème fraîche or yogurt — for the tang, softness and acidity it brings to baked goods, Georgescu explains. And, as with the crescents, Turkish delight is a popular filling alternative.

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The third recipe, an “absolutely mind-blowing” layered pie with hemp cream, is traditionally made in Moldavia in eastern Romania on Christmas Eve.

“(Hemp) was such an important crop for Romanians,” says Georgescu. “So, that’s why it makes an appearance at Christmas. Where you gathered, if you could, all the elements of your everyday life to put them on the table to be blessed by the occasion.”

If your fields were full of hemp, for instance, you would scatter hemp seeds on the table in hopes of having a promising harvest in the coming year.

The pie is called Pelincile Domnului, which means “swaddling blankets of baby Jesus,” Georgescu writes. It typically has 12 layers, but you can make fewer while you hone your technique, she suggests. “It’s a work of love in a way, because as you can see, there are a few stages. So, it takes a bit of time.”

Georgescu compares the layered pie to “an old-style baklava.” Today, baklava is typically made with layers of paper-thin filo dough, giving it a shatteringly crisp crust. But in the past, it was made from doughier, thicker layers.

Here, you cook the flatbreads in a dry pan, soak them in a honey syrup and then assemble the pie by spreading each flatbread with a layer of julfa — a mixture of ground seeds (hemp and pumpkin) that can also be enjoyed as a dairy-free alternative to soft cheese.

“Instead of putting the syrup on top of the whole pie like you do with a baklava, you actually bake the layers first, soak the layers and then you put the filling in between. And then you press them to be flat and you press them overnight or 24 hours,” says Georgescu.

“So, it has a very interesting texture. Also, almost ancient — when wheat was not processed well enough to give you enough gluten in there to stretch very thinly. Wheat would have been less processed, so a dough wouldn’t have stretched very far. So, you have a thicker type of baklava, in a way.”

ROSE-PETAL JAM CRESCENTS

Cornulețe cu dulceață de trandafiri

250 g (2 cups) all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting
125 g unsalted butter
20 g (2 tbsp) superfine sugar
1 medium egg yolk
75 g (1/3 cup) sour cream
1 tbsp rosewater
1 tsp baking powder
Icing sugar, for dusting

For the filling:
150 g (1/2 cup) Rose-Petal Confiture (see recipe or store-bought), mixed with 1 tsp lemon juice
or
9 pieces of rose-flavoured Turkish delight, diced

Step 1

In a mixing bowl, rub the flour and butter together until they resemble breadcrumbs. Add the sugar, egg yolk, sour cream, rosewater and baking powder, and mix until a dough forms. Transfer it to a piece of plastic wrap and bring the dough together by hand without kneading much. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Step 2

Preheat the oven to 180C (non-fan) (350F). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Lightly flour your work surface.

Step 3

Divide the pastry dough in half. Keep one half in the refrigerator while you roll out the other to a circle, at least 24 cm (9 1/2 in) in diameter. Place a plate of that size on top of the pastry and trim neatly around the edges. Divide the circle into quarters, then cut each quarter in half again to achieve 8 wedges of pastry. Place 1 teaspoonful of jam (or a few pieces of Turkish delight) at the wider end of each wedge and roll up. Press to seal the edges and place on the baking sheet.

Step 4

Repeat with the second half of the pastry dough.

Step 5

Bake for 15–18 minutes on a lower shelf until lightly golden and just firm enough to the touch for you to be able to lift them quickly onto a cooling rack. They will firm up as they cool.

Step 6

Serve slightly warm, dusted with icing sugar.

Makes: about 16

ROSE-PETAL CONFITURE

Dulceață de trandafiri

100 g rose petals
4 tbsp lemon juice (from fresh lemons)
200 mL (scant 1 cup) water
180 g (3/4 cup) superfine sugar

Step 1

In a bowl, rub the rose petals with the lemon juice, crushing them lightly with your fingertips. Set aside.

Step 2

Bring the water and sugar to the boil in a pan, then simmer until it reaches the consistency of very thin honey. (On a sugar thermometer, it is the soft-ball or jam consistency.) Add the rose petals and simmer until the mixture thickens again.

Step 3

Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Step 4

Pour the confiture into a sterilized jar (see note), right up to the brim, and seal.

Step 5

It will keep for up to 1 year in a cool, dark place.

Makes: 1 x 100 mL jar

Notes: To sterilize glass jars, wash jars and lids in a dishwasher or in hot, soapy water. Rinse thoroughly, then place upside-down on a baking sheet lined with baking paper and dry for 10 minutes in an oven preheated to 160C (fan) (350F). Handle with care.

In Romania, we serve just a teaspoon of this exquisite jam alongside a cup of black coffee and a small glass of water. It is a very special treat, which also makes for a wonderful gift.

ROMANIAN FESTIVE BREAD WITH WALNUTS AND RAISINS

Cozonac cu nuci și stafide

600 g (5 cups) all-purpose flour
14 g (2 sachets) fast-action dried yeast
200 mL (scant 1 cup) whole milk, warmed
2 medium eggs, plus 2 yolks (reserve whites for filling)
150 g (generous 2/3 cup) superfine sugar
1 tbsp vanilla extract
150 g (2/3 cup) sour cream, at room temperature
Grated zest of 1 large orange
80 g unsalted butter, melted
Sunflower oil, for greasing

For the filling:
150 g (1 1/2 cups) walnuts
150 g (1 1/4 cups) light golden raisins
1 tbsp milk
1 tbsp orange blossom water
2 egg whites
75 g (1/3 cup) superfine sugar

For the glaze:
1 small egg, beaten

Step 1

Combine the flour and yeast in a large bowl or a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the warmed milk, then mix well.

Step 2

In a separate bowl, beat the eggs and yolks with the sugar and vanilla until foamy, then mix in the sour cream and orange zest. Use a wooden spoon or the mixer to incorporate this into the flour mixture. Beat on medium speed for 5–8 minutes until thick strands of dough begin to separate. Start adding the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, incorporating well after each addition. At this stage, you can change to a dough hook or knead by hand until the dough is smooth and coming away from the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a greased bowl. Cover and let rest for 1 1/2 hours in a warm place.

Step 3

Meanwhile, make the filling by blitzing the walnuts and raisins together in a food processor. Add the milk and the orange blossom water and mix well. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites with the sugar to stiff peaks, then combine with the walnut mixture. Set aside.

Step 4

Grease and line two 10 x 21 cm (4 x 8 in) loaf pans.

Step 5

Turn the dough onto a lightly oiled work surface, shape it into a log and divide into 4 equal parts. Gently stretch and roll one part to the length of the tin and double its width. Spread with a quarter of the filling mixture and roll it up into a log. Repeat with the second piece of dough, then twist them together, tucking the ends in, if necessary. Place in the tin. Repeat with the other pieces of dough and place in the second tin. Cover and leave to prove for 30 minutes in a warm place.

Step 6

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180C (non-fan) (350F).

Step 7

Brush the breads with the beaten egg. Bake on the lower shelf of the oven for 20 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 160C (non-fan) (320F) and bake for a further 30 minutes until an inserted skewer comes out clean. Cover the tops with foil if they turn too dark.

Step 8

Leave to cool in the tin, covered with a cloth, for 10 minutes, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely, still covered with a cloth.

Makes: 2 medium loaves

MOLDAVIAN LAYERED PIE WITH HEMP CREAM

Julfe moldovenești

400 g (3 1/4 cups) all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting
250 mL (1 cup) water
1 pinch of salt

For the filling:
250 g (2 cups) pumpkin seeds
250 g (2 cups) hulled hemp seeds, plus extra to serve (optional)
3 tbsp honey
125 mL (1/2 cup) hemp milk, any non-dairy milk or water

For the syrup:
450 mL (1 3/4 cups) water
125 g (generous 1/2 cup) superfine sugar
2 tbsp honey
Juice and zest of 1 lemon

Step 1

Combine the flour, water and salt in a bowl and knead to a firm dough. Leave to rest at room temperature for 15 minutes, then knead again and leave to rest for a further 15 minutes.

Step 2

Set a large cast-iron (or non-stick) frying pan over a medium heat. Don’t add any oil.

Step 3

Divide the dough into 12 pieces, about 50 g each. On a floured work surface, roll and stretch one ball to a circle, 25 cm (10 in) in diameter (or as large as your pan). Keep dusting with a little flour underneath and on top of the dough, so you can roll and stretch it very thinly by hand. Lift and place in the hot pan (don’t worry if it loses its shape slightly) and cook for 3 minutes, then flip and cook the other side for a further 3 minutes. It needs to have the texture of a thin, dry biscuit. Repeat with the remaining dough balls, rolling and cooking one at a time. Stack them on a plate or a wire cooling rack.

Step 4

To make the filling, grind the pumpkin seeds to a powder in a food processor. Add the hemp seeds and blitz together. Add the honey, then gradually add the milk or water, with the motor at medium speed, until the mixture reaches a soft, spreadable consistency. Set aside.

Step 5

To make the syrup, bring all the ingredients to the boil in a pan, then reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes until thickened. Pour into a large shallow dish, wide enough to fit one of the flatbreads inside.

Step 6

To assemble the pie, soak a flatbread in the syrup for 30 seconds, then place it in a dish or a plate with a deep lip. Spread the flatbread with a thin layer of the filling. Repeat with all the remaining flatbreads, leaving the top one plain. You can spoon a little of the remaining syrup on top. Wrap the dish or plate in plastic wrap, then place a tray on top and weight it down with something heavy. This will ensure that the layers are pressed evenly (don’t worry if they crack). Leave for 24 hours, then slice and serve.

Step 7

You can serve as it is or save a couple of tablespoons of the filling to spread on top and sprinkle with a few hulled hemp seeds.

Serves: 16

Recipes and images excerpted with permission from Tava by Irina Georgescu, published by Hardie Grant London, November 2022.

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