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I recently had the opportunity to visit a Zellers, one of the many scheduled to re-open as pop-up shops across Canada. Zellers landed on the Canadian landscape back in 1931, starting in Ontario, and became a household name with more than 300 locations across the country.
Many Canadians shopped there – and ate there – with dozens of the locations offering a 1950s style diner that had a very Happy Days throwback vibe.
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But like all businesses transitioning with the evolving shopping landscape, the chain struggled before closing all its doors 10 years ago. Until a few weeks ago, when word spread that Zellers locations are now coming back, as pop-up shops inside various Hudson’s Bay locations across the country.
I have fond memories of shopping at Zellers – with my mom, or with my girlfriends, looking for the latest lipstick colour, or to purchase back-to-school clothing. And to stop and have a bite to eat in one of the many old-style diners famous for their wrap-around counters and round, vinyl seats.
Diner foods ruled – and Zellers did it best, with such comfort classics as hot chicken sandwiches, grilled cheese, fries with gravy and the famous Big Z Burger, not to mention creamy milkshakes and old-school desserts. Yum!
So, when the opportunity came to check out one of the first Zellers to re-open, I happily jumped at the chance. The location I visited was in Toronto’s Scarborough Town Centre, and was nicely ensconced on the top floor of the Bay. The visit wasn’t so much a nostalgic trip into the past, but a chance to witness the company smartly stepping into the future with a new format and new re-branding. True, the place was much smaller than the Zellers of past years, but the products are more aligned with today’s Canadian shopper in mind.
All in all, the experience was pleasant. Plus – we all had a chance to taste-test Zellers’ food offerings, chowing down on the company’s iconic fan faves – only in smaller serving, so we could get to taste everything, washed down with an old-fashioned soda.
The bad news is – there are no Zellers old-fashioned diners where one can order these tasty offerings. The good news is – these dishes are now available from the Zellers Diners on Wheels food trucks – and only available in choice locations for a few days in the spring (check the website for exact locations) – and where the executive chef pays homage to the original recipes.
Of course, I’m now nostalgic for dishes that bring back memories. Each decade had their own – from the 1930’s, when potato soup and chocolate cream pie were dinner standards, to the 1940’s, which saw creamed chip beef on toast and mashed potatoes grace many a table, to the 1950’s, when Beef Stroganoff and meatloaf were on the menu. The 1960’s, Chicken a la King ruled! And everyone was in love with Liptons’s Onion Soup dip, while in the 1970’s multi-layered jello molds complete with cream cheese layers sparkled many a wedding or baby shower, along with quiche (who can forget that catch-phrase, Real Men Eat Quiche!)
The 1980’s saw people ordering an Orange Julius with a raw egg blended in for good measure, and a some of the newer dishes included blackened catfish, while the 1990’s saw everyone clamouring for bagel bites, pizza rolls and hot pockets!
The 2000’s saw a return to classics, like mac ‘n cheese, chicken pot pie and cupcakes – thanks in part to many looking for to be comforted after 9/11. Throughout the decades, we have seen food trends come and go, but nostalgic dishes seem to always be there, when we need them.
So – here’s to you, Zellers! Thanks for the mouthfuls and the memories. I think I’m going to fix myself a nice grilled cheese sandwich, with fries and gravy, and salute you for coming back.
Deconstructed Chicken Pot Pie
This chicken pot just brims with nostalgia and is so good you won’t believe it’s ready in only 16 minutes. Serves six. Plus any leftovers can be perfect for a hot chicken sandwich. Courtesy of Ree Drummon for foodnetwork.ca.
2 Tbsp. butter
3 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into small cubes
3 celery stalks, finely diced
2 carrots, peeled and finely diced
1 large onion, finely diced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 sheets frozen puff pastry (from a 17.3-oz pkg.), thawed
1 large egg, whisked with 1 tsp. water
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/8 tsp. turmeric
3 cups low-sodium chicken stock, hot
2 cups half-and-half
2/3 cup frozen peas
2 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves picked
1 small sprig fresh rosemary, leaves chopped
Preheat the oven to 425F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add chicken, celery, carrots, onion and some salt and pepper. Cook until vegetables just begin to soften, about 7 minutes.
Meanwhile, make crusts. Unroll both sheets of pastry, even out surface with a rolling pin and cut out 3 circles from each. Transfer circles to prepared baking sheets, poke them all over with a fork and brush with egg wash. Sprinkle over some salt and pepper. Bake until golden brown, about 10 minutes.
While pastry bakes, sprinkle flour over chicken and vegetables and add turmeric; cook for 2 minutes. Pour in hot stock, add half-and-half, peas, thyme and rosemary and cook until sauce thickens, another 3 minutes. Serve in bowls topped with crusts.