THE NORTHERN FRONTIER: Spotting polar bears in Churchill

Pack your parka and your sense of adventure: The northern frontier awaits.

From the moment you step off the plane in the remote northern community of Churchill, Manitoba, it’s clear you’re in ‘Polar Bear Country.’ Warning signs inside the tiny airport give tips on how to avoid confrontation with a bear, which can roam into town at any time.

During the fall (around Oct. 10 to Nov. 18), tourists from across the globe flock to the small town on the rugged shores of Hudson Bay, known as the polar bear capital of the world. The bears are waiting for the sea ice to freeze so they can head out in search of their preferred food source: Seal. The bears’ proximity to town provides the perfect opportunity for animal lovers and adventurers to catch a glimpse of these majestic creatures in their natural habitat.

There are many means and methods of making one’s way north, but one of the most efficient is to travel with a local tourism outfit such as our hosts Lazy Bear Expeditions (lazybearlodge.com). Proprietor Wally Daudrich — a native Winnipegger who has been working in Churchill since the fledgling days of polar bear tourism in the 1980s — and his team have thought of everything, so all you need to do is pack your chalet-chic après-ski sweaters, or an entire suitcase full of coordinating red and black Buffalo Check outfits. (Oh. Just me?)

A five-day jaunt may not seem like a very long trip, but with two full days out on the tundra, the itinerary provides ample opportunity to see not only polar bears, but Arctic foxes, ptarmigan, snow bunting, and Arctic hares.

The adventure started with a flight into Winnipeg, where we spent the night at Inn at the Forks, located at The Forks, a popular destination in the city. My room even came complete with a picturesque view of the Canadian Museum for Human Rights. The hotel also offers an in-house restaurant, Smith, with a cozy ambiance, delicious à la carte dinner options, and an extensive drink menu.

DUE NORTH

In the morning, the group gathered for breakfast bright and early in one of the hotel’s conference rooms before shuttling to the hangar where our flight would take us north aboard Calm Air.

Staff from Lazy Bear met us as we disembarked in Churchill after our charter flight (which takes about 2.5 hours), and we were divided into two groups (mine was called Snowy Owl) and whisked onto a bus that took us on a tour of the town. One stop was the Polar Bear Holding Facility, known colloquially as the polar bear jail. We learned about bear safety, bear traps, and how the local conservation authorities work to keep nuisance bears — and humans — safe. The facility is painted with a beautiful mural featuring a dozing polar bear. Part of the town’s 2017 mural series, SeaWalls, it is one of a number of public art installations created during a dire time for Churchill, when the town’s lifeline, the railway, was shut down for about 18 months due to disrepair. (The railway is now fully functional.)

We visited plane wreck ‘Miss Piggy’, and a beach opposite the Town Centre Complex, where signs warned us of possible polar bears. These adorable creatures may look cute and cuddly, but they’re very dangerous, and the reminders around town are there to help keep everyone safe.

A phone number on the sign advises anyone who sees a bear to report it. A lost bear that has wandered into town will be encouraged to leave the area with noise, or it may enter a trap and be taken to the Holding Facility. If the bear’s health permits, it will be relocated.

That night we headed to the nearby Boreal forest to hitch up the dogs at Wapusk Adventures, hosted by Daudrich’s long-time pal of more than 40 years Dave Daley. With no snow on the ground that evening, our “sled” was actually a cart with wheels, but the pups were still eager to run, and we took turns going for a jaunt around the property. Many of the dogs are rescues and given a second chance to be a part of Daley’s famed dog teams.

Very tired from our long day, we retreated to our beds at the rustic lodge, built by Daudrich out of fire-damaged logs. Building materials are difficult — and expensive — to ship to Churchill, so the resourceful DIYer hitched a sledge to his Ski-Doo and hauled logs from the forest into town where the lodge sits on Churchill’s main drag, Kelsey Blvd. What started out as Lazy Bear Cafe has now grown into the full-service hotel and restaurant — with food so popular, even those staying at the lodge need to make a dinner reservation. The local Arctic char was so delicious I had it twice for dinner. The coffee is also top-notch — and you can buy a bag to take home.

Early the next morning, after a hearty breakfast at the cafe, we headed out on the bus to the site where Lazy Bear’s off-road vehicles are kept. Each of the Churchill tour companies has a different name for their custom-made vehicles: Lazy Bear’s are called Arctic Crawler. The machine is outfitted with a bathroom, small kitchenette where lunch is served, and a back ‘viewing deck’ for unobstructed views of the big white bears.

Our well-spoken and knowledgeable guides, plaid-clad lads Heino and Erik, took turns driving and detailing information about the terrain, geology and animals as we picked our way across decommissioned military “roads” scattered throughout the tundra. The military history in Churchill is fascinating and could be a story of its own — some Austin Powers-esque experiments in the ’60s included trying to manipulate the Aurora Borealis to interfere with Russian radio communications during the Cold War. (Note: The former military complex is not open to the public.)

CALLING BEAR

The first moment someone excitedly said, “Bear!” and the vehicle came to a halt so we could all catch a glimpse was truly amazing. Hushed whispers went throughout the vehicle, windows were opened, cameras were pointed, and those of us who were inclined quickly grabbed our coats to head to the observation platform. Just don’t bring your snacks outside — this is not the zoo. These bears are wild animals. It is not permitted to take any food or drink outside, and everyone must be quiet when all the windows in the Crawler are down.

The first day on the tundra, there was no snow (not unusual for late October) and the colours of all the browns and greys were beautiful, but the moment of collective joy among the group as we laid eyes on the polar bear was something else. As this time of year is considered a “walking hibernation” for polar bears (some haven’t eaten much of anything in several months), they are typically napping or moving rather slowly. The weather, which was hovering slightly above zero, is also too warm for them. Their bodies are built to withstand frigid temperatures and can overheat quickly.

One of the bears we came upon was a smaller male bear with a darker patch of fur on his face — a member of our group nicknamed him Spot.

(All the bears we saw were male. Heino and Erik explained male bears can attack cubs, so a female with cubs would likely be keeping them safe. Cubs are born around Christmas and typically stay with their mothers for more than two years. )

During our travels that first day, we also saw a couple of foxes, and an Arctic hare fast asleep, snuggled in a scrape on the side of the road.

SPOT RETURNS

Day 2 on the tundra was a different look at life in the Arctic, as we had been treated to a dusting of snow overnight. With the wind whipping, Erik advised us to keep a watch on the low bushes, called willows, where bears may be hiding to keep out of the wind.

Drivers from the other tour companies patrol the same territories managed by the province along the tundra, so when we spotted some other vehicles, we knew there was something exciting happening. Sure enough, there was a bear, and to our surprise, it was Spot!

After a delicious lunch of sandwiches and homemade soup aboard the Crawler, we were treated to an interaction between two bears as little Spot wandered a bit too close to a much bigger bear. Spot’s inability to mind his business nearly landed him in hot water as the bigger bear began approaching. Sporting a scar over his eye, the large bear (we dubbed him Big Boi) was on a mission to send Spot back from whence he came.

Spot did a quick turn around and scooted past the Arctic Crawler, making his way from the big bear. “I was just leaving!” Big Boi, however, was not about to let Spot away so easily. He followed him a part of the way, and once he was convinced Spot was no longer a threat, plopped himself down in the snow to cool off. Delighted by our afternoon watching a real-life episode of The Nature of Things, we were also treated to another Arctic fox dashing through the snow. (Red foxes are occasionally seen in the area, but we didn’t see any.)

As an animal lover, these sights were certainly my favourite part of the trip, but wildlife isn’t all there is to see in Churchill. Shops, like the Arctic Trading Company, along the main street have plenty of polar-themed goodies, handmade moccasins and mukluks, and the Itsanitaq Museum located on nearby La Verendrye Ave. features an extensive collection of Inuit art, and a varied collection of books available for purchase. We also stopped on the final morning at the post office, where international visitors got their passports stamped. (I didn’t have my passport, but the clerk stamped a piece of paper for me for my scrapbook.)

The final afternoon, our plane was delayed due to the ongoing snowy weather but we stayed cozy at the lodge, where guests were treated to an impromptu magic show courtesy of Wally’s son Deacon, who has plenty of card tricks up his sleeve.

When we finally touched down in Winnipeg, we spent our last night at the cozy Grand hotel just steps from the airport, making the morning trek back to catch our flights home short and sweet. After an intense, action-packed trip, I was more than ready to make like a polar bear and flop down for a nap.

Find out more about visiting Churchill at travelmanitoba.com/churchill.

IF YOU GO

* Is it cold there? Check the weather right before you go. I brought a thick wool coat from when I lived in Sudbury, and it was too warm. The temperature hovered around freezing most of the time I was there in late October, but I do recommend waterproof footwear. Layers are your best friend.

* Is it guaranteed to see polar bears? No. This is not the zoo. (Although, Winnipeg has a nice one, and there are polar bears there.) These are wild animals and they are unpredictable. There is no way to know where they may be from one day to the next, but our guides knew where the bears like to hang out.

* Do I need a fancy camera? Some folks brought D-SLR cameras and others just used their phones. I personally used two lenses for most of my shots, a 200mm and a 300mm.

* What about shopping? Food selection is limited and prices are high, so if you need creature comforts like a bedtime snack, be sure to pick up what you need in Winnipeg. Otherwise, anything you forgot, like a tuque, hoodie or toiletries, can be bought at the lodge or one of the shops in town.

* Is it true there’s a law people in Churchill must keep their car doors unlocked in case someone sees a bear? It’s not an official law, but most people do this. Roads only lead 30 km outside Churchill, so vehicle theft is not an issue. (I also heard a good joke from a former RCMP officer who said it’s not permitted to dress as a polar bear for Halloween, lest the Conservation Officers mistake you for a real bear.)

lnelles@postmedia.com