Why Britain's greenest island wants 'temporary residents', not tourists

"Every good thing that's happened at Eigg since the community takeover is due to Eigg," said Stuart Paul McCarthy of Eigg Brewery, proudly presenting Scotland's first co-brewery. sharing.

"All is good" includes becoming the world's first green-powered self-sufficient island, and this year's new Anlim Rig community his hub. Welcome to Britain's greenest island. We now welcome visitors as 'temporaries' rather than tourists.

His Eigg renaissance over the last quarter century since the acquisition betrays a past stricken with tragedy and hardship. This wild landscape of arched pitchstone lava mountains, vast Atlantic beaches and desolate shores is home to 400 souls who perished in the "Cave of Massacre" alone - and the harrowing 19th-century Highland Clearance ( It's been plagued by an era of vicious civil wars that destroyed entire communities like Grulin. I deleted the map.

1997 Because of the communal buyout, Eigg, like many of the Hebrides, may at best be ruled by a string of dubious landlords. Instead, under the control of the Eigg Heritage Trust and its subsidiaries Eigg Trading, Eigg Electric and Eigg Construction, the population is on the rise (certainly over 100 people) and people are coming from all over the UK and further afield. is attracted. Eigg's community-driven way of life.

This inclusive spirit extends to visitors. "We don't see visitors to the island as just tourists," says Lucy Conway over local mussels at Garmisdale Bay Cafe in Ann Limrig's new community hub. . "It's about being a 'temporary local,' respecting both ways and helping to put money directly into the community." Director of the new SCOTO (scoto.co.uk) initiative, which aims to show how community owned and managed tourism facilities can work with family businesses, sole proprietors and large corporations.

Limefrig is a shining example. Working with visionary architects and island veterans, WT Architecture – its mantra is 'architecture'. place. People – they created a clean and green hub. Think light and space, a shimmering ocean reflecting off floor-to-ceiling windows. Local wood is abundant. The new Taigh Nighe wash house has a 100% green power shower (contactless £2) and water usage information displayed on the wall. The sole shop is community owned, the Galmisdale Bay Café is leased from the community, and the new community he space will soon be completed and open to all.

Lucy Conway

I stayed overlooking An Laimhrig in Eigg Camping Pods and paid directly to the community there increase. I have 100% green power – Eigg is not connected to the National Grid – my heating only works when it's dry. I burn local wood in my campfire and cook wild venison from Noy Dart, another community-owned oasis by the water. Wash everything down with Eig beer, of course.

The next day he met Owain Wyn-Jones of Eigg Adventures when he moved to his new facility in Anne Limrigg. He ensures that local wind, hydro and solar power is put to good use. You can explore our world leaving only bike trails.

And what a wonderful world it is: the island is crammed into just 9km by 5km, and you can stop at the stone vaulted vaults and see what Google considers shops. Stop by, but it actually turned out to be the case. A charming old school deserted museum. Patches of forest weave in on either side as the papier-mâché peaks of neighboring Lamu Island provide an incredibly cinematic backdrop. I am alone in postcard-perfect Scotland, save for the soaring sea eagles.

Down at Cleadale , homes scattered about to enjoy the wide sandy views of Lamu and Laig Bay. Charlie, a local taxi driver and tour guide, lives in one cottage. He offers me a drum, and his felt artist wife, Libby Galli, has her homemade cake in her hand. "We're his Eigg friendly group, and we're also creative," he says.

Charlie is not wrong. The island is littered with creators like Johnny Lynch, aka 'The Pictish Trail'. He moved to his Eigg, founded Lost Map Records and now hosts the annual Howlin' He Fring Music Festival here as well. Lynch tells me: It takes us out of ourselves. We love to show off this place and celebrate life here.

Johnny Lynch

With Eigg he clearly isn't enough for three days. I reach the famous Singing Sands (spoiler - they squeak rather than sing) and jump over the 393m summit of Ansgar. I also hang around in the old Clearance hamlet of Grulin, but I don't "wild" swim (I just "swim" on Eigg), nor do I embark on the remote Beinn Tighe, nor do I see any of his other three Smalls. Isles (rum, mac, canna).

Our last stop was Eigg Brewery, which claims to be Scotland's greenest brewery. "Of course, we use his Eigg water (which doesn't harden or soften) and green power, but beyond that we've come up with energy-saving processes, and when we burn wood, we use local forestry." ', he emphasizes Stuart Paul McCarthy.

With creative talents like McCarthy being guided by the island's community, the future looks bright for Aig. "I think when people come in as temporary locals, they leave with questions about their lives and the different ways they run their communities," he said, noting that the future is not only bright. Cheers to the island. Also bright green.

Travel Essentials

Directions

Caledonian Sleeper from London Euston to Fort William to various other stations heading north. Take the ScotRail train from Fort William to Arisaig. Take the Arisaig Marine ferryfromArisaig to Eigg.

Stay there

Eigg Camping Pods He charges from £45 per night, room only.

More info

Visit isleofeigg.org