Chanel's Grand Return: Tweed and Tunes at Paris Fashion Week
Chanel dazzles at Grand Palais with tweed-centric spring-summer collection. Actor Riley Keough's surprise performance adds musical flair to the iconic fashion house's latest runway spectacle.
In a spectacular return to the Grand Palais, Chanel unveiled its spring-summer collection on October 1, 2024, marking a significant moment in the fashion calendar. The event showcased the brand's enduring legacy, which began when Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel founded the company in 1909.
The iconic venue, built for the 1900 Exposition Universelle, reopened its doors after extensive renovations funded by Chanel. This historic building, now featuring an entrance named after the label's founder, had been closed since 2021 and recently hosted the Paris Olympics fencing competition in the summer of 2024.
The collection presented a modern interpretation of Chanel's signature tweed, a fabric that has been central to the brand's identity since the 1920s. Models paraded an array of ensembles, including:
- Slit mini-skirts
- Loose trousers
- Dresses adorned with lightweight capes
- Fringed and bow-embellished pieces
Accessories played a crucial role, with some models sporting feather-like embellishments on sunglasses and carrying handbags resembling bird cages. This creative direction paid homage to a 1990s Chanel perfume advertisement featuring Vanessa Paradis, echoed in the runway's centerpiece—a giant bird cage.
The event's highlight was a surprise performance by actor Riley Keough. Dressed in an all-black ensemble with an airy cape and silver platform heels, Keough captivated the audience with her rendition of Prince's 1984 hit "When Doves Cry." Her performance, which included being lifted on a swing above the models during the finale, added a unique musical dimension to the fashion spectacle.
"When Doves Cry" echoed through the Grand Palais as models showcased Chanel's latest creations.
This collection marks a transitional period for Chanel, as it was designed by the brand's studios following the departure of Virginie Viard in June 2024. The fashion house, known for its innovative approach since introducing costume jewelry to haute couture in the 1920s, continues to evolve while honoring its rich heritage.
Chanel's influence extends beyond fashion, with iconic products like the Chanel No. 5 perfume, launched in 1921, and the "2.55" handbag, named after its February 1955 release date. The brand's commitment to craftsmanship is evident in its acquisition of French artisan workshops and the annual Métiers d'Art show celebrating these partnerships.
As Chanel awaits the appointment of a new creative director, this show demonstrated the brand's ability to maintain its position at the forefront of fashion. From the Little Black Dress popularized in the 1920s to the J12 watch introduced in 2000 as the brand's first unisex timepiece, Chanel continues to shape the industry while preserving its unique identity.
The Grand Palais event not only showcased Chanel's latest designs but also reaffirmed the brand's status as a privately owned fashion powerhouse that has never held a public stock offering. As the fashion world eagerly anticipates Chanel's next chapter, the spring-summer collection serves as a testament to the enduring allure of a brand that has been synonymous with elegance for over a century.
