Modernist Jewelry Pioneer Betty Cooke Dies at 100, Leaving Lasting Legacy

Betty Cooke, a pioneering modernist jewelry designer, passed away on August 13, 2024, at her home in Towson, Maryland. She was 100 years old. Known for her minimalist, sculptural designs, Cooke's influence on mid-century jewelry and design spanned over seven decades.

Born on May 5, 1924, in Baltimore, Cooke developed an early appreciation for art through outdoor painting sessions with her father in Leakin Park. After graduating from Western High School, she pursued art education at Johns Hopkins University and the Maryland Institute College of Art (MICA), earning her bachelor's degree in 1946.

Initially aspiring to be a sculptor, Cooke found her calling in jewelry design. Her unique approach incorporated simple geometric forms, often inspired by nature and ancient artifacts. Cooke's work featured:

• Sweeping lines and bright colors
• Movable parts for dynamic wear
• Contrasting materials like silver, gold, enamel, and plexiglass

Cooke's innovative designs caught the attention of art curators and high-end customers alike. Her pieces are now part of permanent collections at prestigious institutions such as the Smithsonian's Cooper Hewitt in New York and the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston.

In 1965, Cooke and her husband, William O. Steinmetz, opened the Store Ltd. in Baltimore's Village of Cross Keys. For nearly six decades, this design destination introduced Baltimore to modernist aesthetics, featuring works by renowned designers like Marimekko, Isamu Noguchi, and Frank Gehry.

Cooke's impact extended beyond her store. She taught design at MICA for two decades, inspiring a new generation of artists. Her dedication to education continued even after her teaching career, as she established an endowed chair in design at MICA in memory of her late husband.

"My jewelry is alive because it provides movement. I like things that move when you move, that whirl around and swing."

Throughout her career, Cooke remained true to her artistic vision. Her work was characterized by precision and simplicity, often described as "precision work, freehand." This unique approach earned her comparisons to abstract sculptors like Alexander Calder.

Cooke's enduring influence was celebrated in 2021 with her first major museum retrospective, "Betty Cooke: The Circle and the Line," at the Walters Art Museum in Baltimore. At 97, she was still actively creating, demonstrating her unwavering passion for design.

Betty Cooke's legacy in the world of modernist jewelry design is undeniable. Her innovative approach to form, material, and wearability has left an indelible mark on the field, inspiring designers and art enthusiasts alike for generations to come.