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PARIS — Viktor &Rolf focused on the suits of the label's haute couture runway show in Paris on Wednesday, showing their collection in ridiculous proportions before recreating a feminine silhouette.
Transformation is the point of Dutch design duos Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, whose eponymous label belongs to the Italian fashion group OTB.
"We wanted something strict, strict, so we turned our attention to men's tailoring," Snoelen said in an interview. "Of course, I didn't just want to show an extreme silhouette. I wanted a new silhouette."
The show is an old classic pinstripes navy blue and white. It started with a suit. The first jacket was slightly trimmed and paired with pleated trousers, and the second jacket was double-breasted.
After that, the proportions were changed, and the jacket's shoulders spread to the sides like a seashell floating around the model's body. Some shoulders were bare, while others had a collar up to the chin. The
model trampled the runway with platform heels, playing pulsing techno music with a sparkling black tie jacket and trench coat, and a crisp striped men's shirt.
Music stopped in the middle of the show, the designer witnessed one model on stage, pulled out the wiring from the jacket, gently swapped the heels flat, and stood upright with the excess fabric facing up. I made it a frill.
“It is important for us to show the power of change,” Horsting said. (Report by Mimosa Spencer, edited by Richard Chang)
