CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund: 20 Years of Shaping Emerging Designers

As New York Fashion Week unfolds in September 2024, a select group of emerging designers finds themselves at a pivotal moment in their careers. In just over a month, they will learn if they've secured a coveted spot in the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA)/Vogue Fashion Fund, now celebrating its 20th anniversary.

This prestigious competition, which has propelled brands like Proenza Schouler and Thom Browne to fashion's upper echelons, offers finalists invaluable industry access and mentorship. The fund, established by the CFDA (founded in 1962) and Vogue (established in 1892), has become a cornerstone in nurturing new talent since its inception.

Ten finalists compete for substantial financial rewards: a $300,000 grand prize and two $100,000 runner-up prizes. Eligibility criteria include U.S.-based operations, fewer than 30 employees, and annual revenue under $10 million. This year's judging panel features industry luminaries such as Thom Browne, Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour, Saks fashion director Roopal Patel, and CFDA CEO Steven Kolb.

For finalist Grace Ling, originally from Singapore, the fund represents a significant opportunity. After receiving the CFDA's first Asian American and Pacific Islander Genesis grant of $100,000 in February 2024, Ling expanded her one-person operation by hiring an additional employee. Her "Neanderthal" collection, featuring 3D-printed aluminum designs and playful accessories, showcases her innovative approach to what she terms "primitive chic."

Sebastien and Marianne Amisial, creators of Sebastien Ami, persevered through four attempts before being accepted into the 2024 fund. Their debut New York Fashion Week runway show, produced on a limited budget, highlighted their resourcefulness and determination.

Past winner Christopher John Rogers, who claimed the prize in 2019, credits the fund for enabling him to build a team, produce his second collection, and establish a design studio in Soho. Rogers has since dressed notable figures like Michelle Obama and Tracee Ellis Ross.

"For me it really meant actually having a shot at running a business and starting a business."

Shawn Grain Carter, a professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology (founded in 1944), emphasizes the importance of strategic growth and profitability for emerging designers, regardless of company size.

Two-time participant Jackson Wiederhoeft attributes his runway show debut to the fund's guidance in 2022. His latest collection featured a choreographed performance and 26 size-inclusive models showcasing his signature corsets.

The CFDA and Vogue continue to support finalists beyond the competition. Rogers and past finalist House of Aama will present their designs at the CFDA/Vogue Americans in Paris Initiative during Paris Fashion Week, established in 1973.

As these emerging designers navigate the competitive fashion landscape, they're not just focused on the immediate future. Grace Ling encapsulates this forward-thinking mindset: "I'm thinking five years down the road. I'm thinking 10 years. I'm thinking about tomorrow."

The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, now two decades strong, continues to play a crucial role in shaping the future of fashion, contributing to an industry that generates an estimated $1.5 to $2.5 trillion annually worldwide.