Michele's Valentino Debut and McGirr's McQueen Evolution at Paris Fashion Week

The spring-summer 2025 ready-to-wear shows at Paris Fashion Week, an event established in 1973, have unveiled transformative collections from renowned fashion houses. The spotlight shone on Alessandro Michele's debut at Valentino and Sean McGirr's second presentation for Alexander McQueen, both demonstrating a delicate balance between brand heritage and personal vision.

Michele, who joined Valentino as creative director earlier in 2024 after a successful tenure at Gucci from 2015 to 2022, presented his collection in a setting reminiscent of a home renovation. This symbolic backdrop, featuring shrouded furniture, set the stage for a "maximalist-lite" approach that honored Valentino's 64-year legacy while infusing it with Michele's distinctive flair.

The collection showcased a blend of vintage-inspired elements and modern interpretations. Feathered hats, lingerie-inspired pieces, and floral motifs created an eclectic wardrobe that paid homage to both Gucci's exuberance and Valentino's ethereal heritage. The iconic "Valentino red," created by founder Valentino Garavani in 1959, made a striking appearance, reimagined for contemporary tastes.

Michele's approach to luxury appeared more subdued compared to his work at Gucci, founded in 1921. He replaced fur with feathers on billowing stoles, demonstrating a modern sensibility while maintaining the couture-level craftsmanship Valentino is known for.

Meanwhile, at the historic École des Beaux-Arts, overlooking the 777-kilometer-long Seine river, Sean McGirr presented his sophomore collection for Alexander McQueen. The venue change from his debut signaled a fresh start for the designer, who took over from Sarah Burton in late 2023.

McGirr drew inspiration from McQueen's Autumn/Winter 1994 "Banshee" show, incorporating Gothic elements that have been influential in fashion since the 1980s. The collection featured precise tailoring, a hallmark of McQueen's subversive approach to British suiting, alongside eveningwear that showcased intricate embroideries and delicate fabrics.

While some pieces, like a jagged off-white tuxedo, felt overly simplistic, McGirr's eveningwear demonstrated growing confidence. A standout piece was an extreme gown embroidered with silver chains, reminiscent of the style favored by Daphne Guinness, a British fashion designer and model who attended the show.

In contrast to the theatrical presentations of Valentino and McQueen, Albert Kriemler's collection for Akris, a Swiss fashion house founded in 1922, embraced minimalism and utility. Kriemler, who has been at the helm since 1980, reimagined the trench coat, a garment with roots in World War I military wear.

The Akris collection exemplified the minimalist aesthetic that gained popularity in the 1990s, focusing on clean lines and impeccable craftsmanship. This approach to luxury fashion emphasizes timeless appeal over fleeting trends, a philosophy that has defined Akris for decades.

As Paris Fashion Week continues, these collections reflect the ongoing evolution of ready-to-wear fashion, a concept that emerged in the 1960s. From Michele's eclectic vision at Valentino to McGirr's exploration of McQueen's dark romanticism and Kriemler's refined minimalism, the spring-summer 2025 season promises a diverse range of styles for the discerning fashion enthusiast.