There are few fashion collaborations more storied, or indeed glamorous, than that between Christian Dior and Roger Vivier. Revered as one of the most influential shoe designers of the 20th century, Vivier began his career in the late 1920s, eventually designing for many of the top manufacturers in Europe and in the United States. His original clients included Pinet, Bally, Rayne, Salamander, and Delman.
The French shoe designer’s partnership with master couturier Christian Dior began in 1953. At that time, Vivier was creating made-to-measure shoes on the sixth floor of a small atelier on Paris’ left-bank Avenue Montaigne. And it was from there that Vivier had magicked up footwear that drew the eye of Monsieur Dior.
During his tenure at Dior, the French shoemaker dreamt up the most daring evening shoes, transforming footwear into covetable treasures with beads, pearls and exotic leathers. There was fantasy, and technical innovation, too: upon joining Dior’s fashion house, the designer had invented what is now known as the stiletto heel by sharpening a shoe’s heel to a higher point and smaller width.
A delve into the Vivier archive uncovers an array of magnificent couture designs, from a pair of oyster silk evening shoes embroidered with coral pastes, silver and gold thread and bronze beads to rhinestone-embellished stilettos imagined in a joyous pink satin.
Vivier remained at Dior for a whole decade, and to this day, their partnership remains the first and only time in the history of Maison Dior that Christian Dior’s name was associated with another designer, a partnership spelt out in gilded letters on shoes’ labels.
Iconic pairing with a timeless appeal
Always one to reinvent the past and make it look relevant again for the future, in celebration of this iconic partnership, Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director at Dior, has unveiled a sparkling new evening shoe inspired by the styles developed with Vivier in 1962.
An update of archival finds with added modern flair, the Dior 62-22 pumps feature a pied de chèvre heel, square toe and vibrant embroidery that lends a playful touch. A highlight of the line-up includes a romantic floral style, embroidered with the Mimosa flower, the official flower of Women’s Day. A symbol of femininity and motherhood, the soft yellow and green blooms are a reference to Monsieur Dior’s dedication to couture, which was only ever rivalled by his passion for the garden.
Taking its cue from the stylistic world of motorbiking, fluorescent yellow threads elevate the accessory with a punkish edge, combining shoe-making traditions with high-tech elements inspired by Dior’s D-Air Lab. Finished with a neoprene strap stamped with a logo signature, the style celebrates an iconic pairing with a timeless appeal.
