Saint Laurent's 2025 Collection: A Blend of Masculine Suits and Bohemian Flair

In a captivating display of sartorial prowess, Anthony Vaccarello, creative director of Saint Laurent, unveiled the brand's spring-summer 2025 collection at Paris Fashion Week. The show, held on September 24, 2024, showcased a striking blend of masculine and feminine aesthetics, paying homage to the iconic style of the house's founder, Yves Saint Laurent.

The presentation took place in the open-air courtyard of Saint Laurent's Left Bank headquarters, a location steeped in history. This setting is particularly significant, as the brand's "Rive Gauche" ready-to-wear line, launched in 1966, was named after this bohemian area of Paris.

Vaccarello's collection began with a series of bold, masculine suits featuring prominent shoulders and matching ties. Models sported thick, studious glasses or aviator shades, adding an intellectual edge to the looks. This nod to androgynous fashion echoes Saint Laurent's revolutionary introduction of "Le Smoking" tuxedo suit for women in 1966, which challenged gender norms in fashion.

The collection's accessories played a crucial role in elevating the overall aesthetic. Chunky jewelry and pointy stilettos added glamour to the ensembles, while bomber jackets contributed to the substantial silhouettes. This attention to detail is reminiscent of Saint Laurent's meticulous approach to design, which earned him a solo exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1983 – the first for a living fashion designer.

As the show progressed, Vaccarello skillfully transitioned to more feminine, bohemian styles. Flowing skirts adorned with paisley motifs and shimmery brocade jackets covered in floral patterns made their way down the runway. This shift in style could be seen as a nod to Saint Laurent's diverse inspirations, including his famous "Mondrian" collection from 1965, inspired by the Dutch painter's work.

The event attracted a star-studded audience, with celebrities like Lenny Kravitz, Kate Moss, and Gwyneth Paltrow in attendance. This celebrity presence is a testament to Saint Laurent's enduring influence in popular culture, a tradition that began with the brand dressing icons like Catherine Deneuve and Betty Ford.

Saint Laurent's spring-summer 2025 show marked the second day of Paris Fashion Week, which runs until October 1, 2024. The event showcases the creations of some of the world's most prestigious fashion houses, including Hermes, Chanel, Valentino, and Louis Vuitton.

"This collection is a celebration of the house's heritage, reinterpreted for the modern era. It's about blending the masculine and feminine, the structured and the fluid, in a way that honors Yves Saint Laurent's revolutionary spirit."

As the fashion world eagerly anticipates the full unveiling of the collection, it's worth noting that Saint Laurent's influence extends far beyond the runway. The brand, founded in 1961, has consistently pushed boundaries in the industry. From introducing luxury prêt-à-porter in 1966 to being one of the first to use non-white models in runway shows, Saint Laurent has always been at the forefront of fashion innovation.

The Kering luxury group, which acquired the YSL brand in 1999, continues to uphold this legacy of innovation and excellence. With Anthony Vaccarello at the helm since 2016, Saint Laurent remains a pivotal force in the fashion world, consistently delivering collections that honor the past while boldly stepping into the future.