On September 16, 2024, the fashion world paused its London Fashion Week activities to attend the screening of "In Vogue: The 90s," a documentary series that delves into one of fashion's most influential decades. The event, held amidst the Spring-Summer 2025 catwalk calendar, offered a nostalgic glimpse into an era that shaped modern fashion.
Anna Wintour, Vogue's editor-in-chief since 1988, shared her recollections of the 1990s, emphasizing the decade's creativity and the rise of models as celebrities. She noted how fashion became more accessible to the mainstream during this period, a trend that has continued to this day.
The six-part series features contributions from iconic figures of the era, including supermodels Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, and Kate Moss. Campbell made history in 1988 as the first black model to grace the cover of French Vogue, while Moss, discovered at 14, became one of the decade's most recognizable faces.
Actors Gwyneth Paltrow and Nicole Kidman, along with reality TV star Kim Kardashian, also offer their perspectives in the documentary. While Kardashian's rise to fame came after the 1990s, her inclusion highlights the lasting impact of the era on contemporary pop culture.
The series spotlights designers who defined the decade:
- John Galliano, who became head designer at Givenchy in 1995 before moving to Christian Dior
- The late Alexander McQueen, known for his provocative runway shows and founding his label in 1992
- Tom Ford, credited with reviving Gucci after becoming its creative director in 1994
- Stella McCartney, who later launched her own fashion house in 2001
Designer Harris Reed described the 1990s as "ultimate fashion at its height," noting the era's experimental nature and larger budgets for runway shows.
The documentary also touches on significant trends of the decade, including:
- The rise of the "supermodel" phenomenon
- The emergence of grunge fashion, popularized by bands like Nirvana
- The controversial "heroin chic" trend
"In Vogue: The 90s" premiered on Disney+ on September 13, 2024, with the remaining episodes set to air on September 20, 2024. This release on a platform launched in 2019 demonstrates the enduring fascination with 1990s fashion.
As the fashion industry continues to evolve, with its global market value having grown significantly since the 1990s' estimated $1.5 trillion, this documentary serves as a testament to a decade that continues to inspire and influence contemporary style.
"I do remember how creative it was and really the idea of models becoming celebrities and personalities and fashion really becoming more mainstream in a way that it became more open to the world."
The screening of "In Vogue: The 90s" during London Fashion Week, one of the "Big Four" fashion weeks established in 1984, provided a fitting backdrop for this exploration of fashion history. As the industry looks forward to the Spring-Summer 2025 collections, this retrospective offers valuable insights into the foundations of modern fashion.