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These Copenhagen designers dress A-list influencers, which you've probably never heard of.

By Leah Dolan, CNNCopenhagen, Denmark

March 2022, Celebrity Fashion counterculturalist Julia Fox arrives at Vanity Fair's Oscars after-party. Wearing a black leather gown that made her head spin, her halter wrapped her hands around her neck.

"Grip Dress" made fashion her press headlines. Fox's look "won the blue carpet," Vanity Fair wrote, but Grazia called it "the most controversial look candidate ever."When asked about the designer, Fox I hesitated. "Hans," she said, at her vanity fair she said that night, "My surname is German and I cannot pronounce it."

Julia Fox wore the Han Kjøbenhavn look to the 2022 Vanity Fair Oscar Party.

Julia Fox wore her Covenhavn look to the 2022 Vanity Fair Oscar Party. Credits: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images North America/Getty Images

Actually a Danish surname: Kjøbenhavn is like Han Kjøbenhavn is a brand founded by Danish designer Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen. The look was part of the brand's Spring/Summer 2022 collection and was a bespoke version made for Fox at the request of stylist Briana Andalore about eight months before Oscar night. .

Copenhagen Before his latest presentation at his Fashion Week, he told CNN in a video call: "Because of the time difference, when I woke up in the morning and checked my email, I noticed that my notifications were messed up. I think it's a combination of Julia Fox and her having the courage to wear a dress. This is very At such a classic event, it blew up like that.”

Davidsen certainly makes clothes for the fearless. (Beyoncé wore one of Han Covenhaun's surrealist gold body coils on the latest British Vogue cover). Many elements of the fashion industry make you sweat and dread (if you need convincing, just watch The Devil Wears Prada again), but David Sen's work is undeniably haunting. is. White walled studio between flickering lights and static suspended projected campaign images. A boxy Frankenstein exhibited a mannequin wearing his style coat, sticking out dry ice. The jackets (leather, denim, or anything that looks like wet feathers) were all cut into David Sen's hallmark massive silhouettes.

"Unknown Fantasy" was presented at the Han Kjøbenhavn showroom in Copenhagen last week.

"Unknown Fantasy" was unveiled at his Han Kjøbenhavn showroom in Copenhagen last week. Credits: Han Kjøbenhavn

Rising Star Power

More at Copenhagen Fashion Week Where -- Held from Tuesday, August 9th to Friday, August 12th -- another label that Fox seems to like has unveiled a new collection.

Swedish designer Jade Cropper , a snap of now-viral street style on Fox this April,last-minute satin slip dresses,showed off a spring-summer collection made primarily of Circuros. , recycled cotton waste material.

Skirts and dresses dominated the cropper runway, but clothes were never girly, using her printed meshes, raw-cut denim, and dynamic cutouts. , has been replaced by a darker version of femininity. "I'm working on my femininity, but I need this edge, this power," she told CNN after the show. Cropper said one of her runway models told her, 'I'm a man I wear nothing but trousers.But if I wear feminine clothes, this is what I wear."I felt justified when I told her.

During her debut last season, Cropper won Copenhagen Fashion Week's Newcomer of the Year award and was named Elle Sweden's Newcomer of the Year 2022. She already belongs to the Kardashian clan. She has been selected for her performances and appearances with singers SZA to Jorja Smith. "That's great," Cropper said of her new celebrity client roster. }

The Jade Cropper SS23 puts a twist on traditional feminine shapes. Credits: James Cochrane

Scandi set variations

Both designers iconic is of the aesthetic divide in the Nordic fashion scene. Once dominated by colorful, quirky patterns and soufflé silhouettes from brands like Stine Goya and Ganni, now a more industrial and brooding visual language is beginning to emerge. It's not that Copenhagen Fashion Week was brooding and dystopian. Local parties Her brand Rotate wrapped up Thursday's show with a red PVC-themed finale scored by Megan Thee her stallion's "Thot Shit." His coat with skirts and serotonin-boosting metal trenches. But with an undeniable amount of star power at your fingertips, Cropper and Kjøbenhavn could redefine what Scandic-chic clothing means to her.